Comillas, in Cantabria, is a small town that packs a serious punch when it comes to things to see and do. We were able to explore this Cantabrian coastal gem while staying there, and I’m here to give you the inside scoop on why it should be on your travel radar.
First things first, if you’re an architecture buff, Comillas is your playground. This town boasts some of the most impressive and eclectic buildings I’ve ever laid eyes on. From the whimsical El Capricho de Gaudí to the neo-Gothic Palacio de Sobrellano, you’ll be snapping photos left and right. And let’s not forget the Pontifical University – a monumental complex in a neo-gothic Mudejar style.
But Comillas isn’t just about the buildings. The Old Town is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and hidden corners that’ll keep you exploring for hours. Trust me, getting lost here is half the fun. And when you’ve worked up an appetite, the local cuisine will not disappoint. Think fresh seafood, hearty stews, and cheeses that’ll make your taste buds sing.
So, stick with me, and I’ll guide you through the best things to do in Comillas, Spain.
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Comillas Sightseeing Map
Best Things to Do in Comillas, Spain (Quick List)
Short on time? Here’s what to see in Comillas at a glance – jump to any section below for the full details.
- El Capricho de Gaudí – Gaudí’s whimsical modernist summer villa
- Sobrellano Palace & Capilla Panteón – neo-Gothic palace and family mausoleum
- Pontifical University (Seminario Mayor) – hilltop neo-Gothic Mudéjar seminary with sweeping coastal views
- Old Town & Plaza de la Constitución – cobblestone streets, cafés, and the Church of Saint Christopher
- Cemetery of Comillas – Gothic cemetery watched over by the “Angel Exterminador”
- Playa de Comillas – the town’s main beach, promenade, and old fishing port
- Playa de Oyambre – wilder, surf-friendly beach inside Oyambre Natural Park
- Güell and Martos Park – quiet gardens just outside the Old Town
- Sendero del Acantilado – cliffside walk to Mirador de Santa Lucía
Comillas is compact enough to hit the highlights in a single day, but if you want time on the beaches or the cliff walk, budget two.
Explore the Charming Old Town
Wandering through Comillas’ Old Town feels like stepping back in time. You’ll find historic spots, such as Plaza de la Constitución and the Fuente de los Tres Caños, that transport you to centuries past.
Plaza de la Constitución and Church of Saint Christopher of Comillas
The Plaza de la Constitución is the heart of Comillas’ Old Town. This lively square brims with cafes, local shops, and historic buildings. It’s the perfect spot to soak up local life and enjoy some people-watching. Around the plaza, you’ll find quaint streets filled with colorful houses.
Rising above the plaza is the Church of Saint Christopher of Comillas. This church, with its Gothic architecture and towering bell tower, is a focal point in the old town. The church’s intricate design and stained glass windows make it worth a short visit.
Fuente de los Tres Caños (Fountain of the Three Pipes)
A short walk from the main plaza brings you to the Fuente de los Tres Caños. This fascinating sculpture is adorned with intricate plant designs and angelic figures. Its unique structure features a tall column rising from a base divided into three sections, each with its own fountain. A curled-up dolphin is the main theme, accompanied by a cross with small buttons and inscriptions.
Want the history without doing your own research? Book a guided tour of Comillas’ Old Town – a couple of hours to half a day with a local guide is an easy way to cover the plaza, the church, and the fountain with the stories attached.
Beyond, Comillas is a wealth of things to see and do in Cantabria. It makes a great base while you explore it as part of a longer northern Spain road trip.
Architectural Wonders of Comillas
Comillas, Spain, is known for its stunning architecture. You will find many impressive buildings designed by famous architects, each with its own unique style and history. Let’s explore the must-see architectural marvels in Comillas.
El Capricho by Gaudí
El Capricho, designed by Antoni Gaudí, is a breathtaking example of Modernist architecture. It’s not just a building – it’s a testament to the unparalleled creativity and vision of Gaudí, the mastermind behind some of the world’s most iconic Modernist structures.
Picture this: you arrive at El Capricho, and you’re immediately greeted by a whimsical tower that looks like it’s been plucked straight from a fairy tale. The green and gold sunflower ceramic tiles and curling motifs that adorn its surface create a mesmerizing pattern influenced by nature. In fact, you’ll find these tiles in souvenir shops. They make cool gifts from Spain.
But wait, there’s more! Step inside, and you’ll find yourself in a wonderland of curved walls, stained-glass windows, and intricate wrought-iron details. The house was built as a summer villa and reflects Gaudí’s playful side.
But here’s the real reason why you absolutely must visit El Capricho: it’s a rare opportunity to witness the early genius of Gaudí, before he became the legendary architect we all know. By exploring this incredible building, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of his unique vision and the profound impact he had on the world of architecture.
Don’t miss the beautiful gardens surrounding the house, perfect for a relaxing stroll. You’ll even meet a statue of Gaudí himself!
El Capricho is located just outside the center of Comillas. It is open to visitors everyday of the week from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM. There is a lot of flexibility in terms of tickets. You can choose to do a self-guided tour using their audio guide in a language of your choice or you can book a visit with a guide. You can also choose an open ticket that’s valid for any time and any day in the 30 days after you buy the ticket online.
El Capricho is located just outside the center of Comillas. Hours shift with the season: 10:00 AM–5:30 PM from November through February, 10:00 AM–8:00 PM from March through June and again in September and October, and 10:00 AM–9:00 PM in July and August. Last entry is usually 30 minutes before closing, and the site is closed December 24, 25, and 31 and January 1 and 6.
General admission is self-guided with an audio guide included, has no time limit, and runs around €7 for a fixed time slot. A guided tour costs €10, with reduced rates for seniors, students, and a few other categories. Add €3 to all of these tickets if you want flexibility to enter at any time on your selected day. Heads up if you’re traveling with a wheelchair or stroller: the cobbled paths and spiral staircases make full access tricky. Because hours and prices can shift, it’s worth a quick check of the official website before you go.
Budget at least an hour for the visit.
When planning your visit, keep in mind that El Capricho is a popular attraction, so it’s best to book your tickets in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons.
Sobrellano Palace and the Capilla Panteón
Sobrellano Palace is a majestic Gothic-Revival building designed by Joan Martorell and built for the first Marquis of Comillas. The opulence, the grandeur, the sheer extravagance – it’s enough to make your jaw drop. And that’s before you even get to the intricate wooden carvings and lavish furnishings.
Adjacent to the palace is the Capilla Panteón, a chapel that serves as a mausoleum. This is where the Marquis and his family are laid to rest, and let me tell you, they went out in style. There are soaring ceilings, stunning stained-glass windows, and an elaborate neo-Gothic altar. And the craftsmanship? Unparalleled.
The Sobrellano Palace and the Chapel-Pantheon are located right next to El Capricho. They are typically open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday, with varying hours depending on the season. It’s best to check the official website or tourist information office for the most up-to-date opening times.
Tickets are sold same-day at the palace door (there’s no advance online booking for individual visitors), with general admission around €3 for the palace and €3 for the chapel – each booked and paid separately. Reduced rates apply for kids. You can only visit as part of a guided tour in Spanish. But check and see if they can do a tour in English. The palace tour will take 45 minutes and the chapel tour is just 20 minutes long.
If you want to visit El Capricho, Sobrellano Palace and the Chapel, be very careful when planning your guided tours for the latter two and leave enough time to get to each sight. It may be a good idea to buy an open ticket to El Capricho even if it’s slightly more expensive, so you can have a bit of flexibility but ensure entry even during busy periods.
You can also take a small group tour from Santander to visit the Pontifical University and El Capricho and seeing the other modernist sights from the outside.
Pontifical University (Old Major Seminary)
The Pontifical University or Old Major Seminary of Comillas, designed by Lluis Domènech i Montaner, is a massive structure with an imposing facade. The mix of Gothic and Mudéjar styles, combined with Modernist elements, creates an impressive sight. Inside, the spacious courtyards and elegant arches are impressive. It’s a bit like walking through a history book, with each corner revealing a new architectural detail.
If you’re in Comillas and you skip the Universidad Pontificia, designed by Lluis Domènech i Montaner, you’re seriously missing out. This place is a hidden gem that most tourists overlook, but it’s packed with history and architectural brilliance. When you visit, expect to be blown away by the grandeur of the main building. The intricate details of Gothic and Mudéjar styles, combined with Modernist elements and soaring spires are gold. It’s like Hogwarts, but with a Spanish twist.
Inside the Universidad Pontificia, you’ll explore several key areas. Highlights include the grand Main Hall, the beautiful chapel with its stained-glass windows and ornate altars, and the treasure-filled library housing rare books and manuscripts. You’ll also visit historical lecture halls, serene cloisters and courtyards.
The university can only be visited as part of a pre-booked guided tour in Spanish that lasts about 45 minutes. Guided tours run about €7 for adults (reduced rates for kids, seniors, and a few other categories) and last around 45 minutes. Tours are popular and slots are limited, so book your spot in advance here if you don’t want to risk missing out, and give yourself plenty of time to visit the other architectural sights near the center of town.
Cemetery of Comillas
The Cemetery of Comillas is perched on a hill overlooking the sea. Designed by Cristóbal Cascante, the cemetery combines Gothic and Neo-Gothic styles. The iconic statue of a weeping angel, known as the “Angel Exterminador,” dominates the entrance. The tombstones and mausoleums, along with the stunning coastal views, give it a haunting beauty. Entry to the cemetery is completely free and you only need a few minutes to walk around and take in the views.
Güell and Martos Park
Güell and Martos Park provides a lovely escape within the town. Designed by Antonio López Hernández, the park is filled with lush greenery and winding paths. It’s a quiet place where you can enjoy the blend of nature and art.
There are specific pieces of architecture to look out for. The House of the Duke of Almodóvar del Río is a historic residence designed by architect Cristóbal Cascante under the guidance of Antoni Gaudí. However, instead of the modernism of Gaudi’s work, this building is in the 19th century style of English Historicism. The “Angel” Monument is a striking statue that stands as a tribute to the Marquis of Comillas.
Viewpoints and Beaches
Comillas boasts beautiful beaches that are perfect for relaxation. You’ll find pristine sandy shores, clear waters, and scenic views at these spots.
Playa de Comillas
Playa de Comillas is a favorite spot. This long beach has fine, golden sand and calm waters, making it perfect for sunbathing and swimming. Lifeguards are on duty, which is reassuring for families. Behind the beach, there’s a promenade lined with cafes and shops.
You can grab a snack or just enjoy a leisurely walk. The view of the old fishing port adds charm. It’s a great place to spend a lazy afternoon, whether you’re lying on the sand or sipping a drink at a nearby café.
Playa de Oyambre
Playa de Oyambre is a bit more secluded and often crowd-free. This beach is known for its natural beauty and is part of Oyambre Natural Park. The waves here are bigger, so it’s ideal for surfing. There’s also a stunning backdrop of mountains and dunes.
Pack a picnic and enjoy the coastal landscape. Bird watchers will love spotting different species here. It’s quieter than Playa de Comillas, giving you a chance to unwind in a more peaceful setting.
Grounds of the University
The view from the Comillas Pontifical University is nothing short of spectacular. Perched on an elevated position, the university offers a sweeping panorama of the Cantabrian Sea and the Bay of Biscay. On a clear day, you can see for miles, taking in the rugged beauty of the coastline and the lush green hills that characterize this part of Spain.
As you explore the university grounds, you’ll find various vantage points that showcase different perspectives of this stunning coastal vista. Whether admiring the view from the main building’s balcony or strolling through the well-manicured gardens, each spot provides a unique opportunity to appreciate the natural splendor of Comillas and its surroundings.
Sendero del Acantilado Cliff Path and Mirador de Santa Lucía
For those who enjoy walking, the Sendero del Acantilado Cliff Path is a must. This path leads to the Mirador de Santa Lucía, a viewpoint with breathtaking views of the coastline. The walk itself offers amazing cliffside scenes and fresh sea air.
You’ll want to have your camera ready, as the vantage points along the way are stunning. It’s a peaceful walk that connects you with nature, and the endpoint gives you a sweeping view of the ocean and surrounding area. Perfect for a morning or evening stroll.
Discover the Local Gastronomy
In Comillas, food is a big deal. Make sure you try some traditional dishes. Many spots serve cocido montañés, a hearty bean stew. You’ll also find sardines grilled to perfection.
Here are some recommended places to eat in Comillas:
Walk to the Marisquería Adolfo restaurant for some fresh seafood. Asador Parrilla La Fragua is known for its relaxed atmosphere and excellent grilled dishes. The menu features a variety of seafood, meats, including steaks, ribs, and sausages, all cooked to perfection on the grill.
Love modern twists on traditional food? El Remedio has you covered with its innovative take on traditional Cantabrian cuisine, blending local ingredients with modern techniques to create memorable dishes.
The local cheese selection is amazing too. Definitely try the queso de nata, a creamy delight. Grab a slice from a local market along with the Cantabrian breakfast bread – sobaos, and enjoy them by the sea.
Don’t miss out on quesada pasiega for dessert. This sweet is a treat. You might find yourself eating more than one. No shame in that.
Nature and Outdoor Activities
In Comillas, you’ll encounter picturesque landscapes and invigorating outdoor pursuits. From sprawling parks to scenic hiking trails, there’s something for every nature lover here.
Oyambre Natural Park
Oyambre Natural Park should be on your radar. This coastal stretch is packed with lush greenery and sandy beaches. Fancy a picnic by the sea or some bird-watching? You’re in luck. The park’s wetlands, dunes, and cliffs are practically begging to be photographed.
Feeling a bit more adventurous? Book a kayak tour around the Oyambre estuary – the gentle waves are perfect for newbies. Playa de Oyambre’s bigger swells also make it a solid spot to book a surf lesson if you’ve never tried. And if you’re into cycling, the trails offer a great ride with a side of local wildlife sightings.
Walking and Hiking Trails
Comillas is a hiker’s paradise. There are several trails that cater to different skill levels. One popular trail takes you up to the viewpoint of La Campa. The view here is breathtaking, with panoramic lookouts of the coastline and mountains.
If you’re into shorter walks, the routes through the town’s outskirts are charming. You’ll find paths lined with stone walls and wildflowers. Don’t forget to wear good walking shoes and perhaps be prepared for changing weather. Northern Spain is known to get rain throughout the year.
Getting to Comillas
Getting to and around Comillas can be straightforward if you plan. Local buses are frequent and can take you to many nearby towns. For more flexibility to visit nearby attractions, renting a car is a good idea. The roads are in good condition, and driving gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. However, there are very few large car parks with free parking. Smaller ones are scattered throughout the town, and you may need to try more than one to find a spot.
Walking is a great way to see the town. Comillas is small and pedestrian-friendly, with a few uphill sections outside of the old town.
For longer trips, you can find taxis, but they can be a bit pricey.
From Santander Airport
The nearest airport is Santander Airport, which is about 54 kilometers away. From there, you can rent a car or take a bus. Autobuses La Cantábrica runs multiple direct buses to and from Santander every day – the exact number shifts by season, so check their current schedule before you plan around it. The ride takes a little over an hour.
From Bilbao Airport
Flying into the Basque Country instead? Bilbao Airport is a solid alternate gateway, about 150 km from Comillas – roughly 1.5 to 2 hours by car. There’s no direct public transport for this route; you’d connect through Santander by bus, which takes considerably longer. Renting a car or booking a private transfer is the easier call.
Direct Bus from Madrid
Coming from the capital, ALSA runs a direct bus between Madrid’s Avenida de América interchange and Comillas, several times a day, year-round – no need to route through Santander first. Check current times and book at BusBud.
However you’re arriving, if you’d rather skip the driving altogether, book a private airport transfer straight from Santander or Bilbao to your hotel in Comillas.
Staying in Comillas
As I mentioned in the beginning, we stayed in Comillas to explore Cantabria and a bit of neighboring Asturias. It makes a great base if you’re driving but you may be better positioned in nearby Torrelavega or in Santander if you have to rely on buses or trains. If you do decide to stay in Comillas, you can consider two main areas – by the beach or downtown.
Comillas Travel FAQ
Is Comillas worth visiting?
Yes, for a town this small, Comillas punches well above its weight. You get one of the only Gaudí buildings outside Catalonia, two more architectural landmarks in the Sobrellano Palace and Pontifical University, a walkable old town, and beaches on the doorstep. It’s an easy highlight of any northern Spain itinerary.
What is Comillas known for?
Comillas is best known for its modernist architecture, especially El Capricho, one of Antoni Gaudí’s few works outside Catalonia, along with the neo-Gothic Sobrellano Palace and the hilltop Pontifical University. It’s also known for its beaches, cobblestone old town, and as a gateway to Oyambre Natural Park.
How many days do you need in Comillas?
One full day covers the main sights comfortably. Two days gives you breathing room for a beach afternoon, the Sendero del Acantilado cliff walk, and a slower pace through the Old Town.
Is Comillas a good day trip from Santander?
Definitely. It’s about 40 minutes to an hour away by car or direct bus, which makes it an easy day trip if you’re based in Santander. That said, staying overnight lets you see the sights before the day-trip crowds arrive.
What’s the closest beach to Comillas?
Playa de Comillas is right in town, a short walk from the Old Town. Playa de Oyambre, a bit more secluded and better for surfing, is a short drive or bike ride away inside Oyambre Natural Park.
