Last updated on July 30th, 2025
We’ll never forget that first moment stepping into Sarlat’s main square. The golden limestone seemed to glow in the morning light and the scene looked like it was straight out of a movie set. Turns out we weren’t far off – this stunning medieval town in the heart of Périgord Noir has indeed been the backdrop for countless films, from “The Three Musketeers” to “Joan of Arc.” But what makes Sarlat truly magical isn’t its Hollywood appeal; it’s the way centuries of history seem to whisper from every archway and cobblestone.
If you’re wondering whether Sarlat is worth visiting, we can answer with a resounding yes. First of all, Sarlat is short for Sarlat-la-Canéda and it is a town in the southwestern French department of Dordogne. This perfectly preserved medieval gem offers something genuinely rare: a complete historical townscape that feels authentically lived-in rather than museum-like. Plus, its location in the Dordogne makes it the perfect launching pad for exploring the region’s other treasures. Our itinerary of things to do in Sarlat is relaxed because that’s how this town should be savored!
Jump to ...
Essential Planning for Before You Go
Located in southwestern France’s Dordogne department, Sarlat sits beautifully in the heart of what locals call Périgord Noir (Black Périgord), named for its dense oak forests and truffle-rich soil. We learned quickly that timing your visit can make or break the experience.
Read more: See how we included Sarlat-la-Canéda in an 8 day long Southwest France road trip.
Market days are Wednesday and Saturday, with the Saturday one being the bigger one – and trust us, you want to experience at least one. The entire town transforms into a sensory feast of local produce, artisanal goods, and that uniquely French market energy. We planned our visit around Saturday’s market and it became the absolute highlight.
The eternal question: whether to stay in Sarlat, or visit it as a day trip? We opted to stay in a nearby village, as we had a rental car and Sarlat’s streets are narrow with a many one ways. The town gets really busy on most days, which makes it difficult to get parking if you arrive within popular times.
On the other hand, we wouldn’t have been disappointed had we stayed in Sarlat. There’s something almost mystical about having the medieval streets to yourself early in the morning and late evening when the day-trippers have gone. We actually made a last minute decision to return as dusk fell just to experience the town after dark!
If you stay in Sarlat and you don’t have a car, you can take a private or group tour from here. Here are a few highly rated tours to the surrounding sights from Sarlat.
Arrive early to park at the free spots in the north side of the historic center. Place du Marché aux Noix and Place des Cordeliers are two. They are uphill and about a 10-minute walk from the center.
Walking Map for the Following Itinerary
Morning:
Morning: Medieval Heart Discovery
9:00 AM – Cathedral and Captivating Facades
We headed straight to Sarlat’s tourism office, which usually opens at 9 AM. Here we found out about timings for the panoramic lift, which I’ll tell you about in a bit. We bought tickets for the lift and the Manoir de Gisson here and picked up a map of the town. If you’d like to learn more about the sights of Sarlat, the tourism office also provides an official 1-hour walking tour of the town, which you can book in advance here.
Next, we headed to Place du Peyrou, where the Cathedral Saint-Sacerdos dominates one side of the square. Its mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture tells the story of centuries of renovation and expansion. Step inside and you’ll immediately notice how each era left its mark – the oldest parts date back to the 12th century, with beautiful stained glass windows casting colorful patterns across ancient stone floors. The interior feels wonderfully lived-in rather than museum-like, and if you’re lucky enough to catch choir practice like we did, the acoustics are absolutely remarkable.
On the other side of the square, we admired the facade of La Maison de la Boétie. The mix of medieval and the Renaissance styles are immediately apparent, along with the beautifully framed large windows.
Moving north through the town, we stopped at the Hôtel de Maleville, with another ornate Renaissance facade, catching our attention next. It’s one of those buildings that makes you slow down and really look – every carved detail seems to tell a story.
9:45 AM – Saturday Market Magic
We headed into Sarlat’s beating heart, Place de la Liberté, where the Saturday market was at its delicious peak of activity and the Hôtel de Ville town hall dominates.
If you time your visit for market day, prepare for sensory overload in the best possible way. The entire old town becomes an open-air feast, with vendors selling everything from aromatic truffles to farm-fresh foie gras, local cheeses, and the most beautiful produce we’ve ever seen.
The food vendors typically pack up around 1 PM, while other stalls (crafts, clothing, etc.) stay open until about 6 PM.
The truffle vendors were fascinating to watch – these wrinkled black gems that sell for hundreds of euros per kilogram, being examined with the care of precious stones. We couldn’t resist buying a small jar of truffle butter that made every meal back home taste like a French feast.
The majestic former Sainte-Marie church stands proudly in the medieval town’s center. Since 2000, this historic treasure has housed the town’s unmissable covered market, featuring spectacular 15m high doors designed by renowned architect Jean Nouvel.
Don’t miss the bell tower, located on the other side of the same building. You don’t even have to climb the stairs – there’s an open-air panoramic lift to take you to the top for great views over those famous honey-colored rooftops. From up there, you can see why filmmakers love this place so much; the roofscape looks virtually unchanged from medieval times. A guide will accompany you up and point out various important landmarks. You’ll need to buy a ticket to access the lift, which you can buy on the spot on less crowded days or reserve ahead at the tourism office.
10:45 AM – Manoir de Gisson
Here’s where we discovered one of Sarlat’s best-kept secrets. While most tourists stick to the main squares, we ducked into the Manoir de Gisson, a beautifully preserved 13th-15th century manor house that offers an intimate glimpse into medieval life. This attraction rarely gets crowded, making it perfect for beating the tourist rush while still getting that deep historical experience.
The self-guided tour (available in English on printed leaflets) was just enough to bring the rooms to life. We saw period furniture and learnt fascinating stories about daily life in medieval times. What struck us most was how authentic everything felt – no velvet ropes or sterile museum atmosphere, just genuine historical ambiance.
11:30 AM – Catch the Geese and Wander Medieval Streets
Don’t miss the charming bronze statue of the 3 geese in the same square, Place des Oies – it’s where live geese are still sold once a year. It’s a quirky but controversial tribute to the region’s famous foie gras heritage. It’s a whimsical touch in the midst of all the serious medieval architecture.
With our historical appetite whetted, we set off to explore Sarlat’s maze of narrow streets. Rue Salamandre became our favorite – it’s lined with stunning examples of that golden limestone architecture and leads to some gorgeous hidden courtyards that most visitors miss entirely.
Every corner seemed to offer a new photo opportunity, but we were particularly drawn to the interplay of light and shadow on the ancient stone as the morning sun climbed higher.
Our final morning stop was the mysterious Lanterne des Morts, a unique 12th-century cylindrical tower that’s unlike anything we’d seen before. The climb to the top offers a different perspective on the town – more intimate than the bell tower but equally rewarding.
Afternoon:
Afternoon: Time for Lunch and Final Exploration
12:30 – From Market Picnics to Fine Dining
If you have market treasures in hand, find a quiet square away from the main tourist flow to create the most memorable picnic lunch. Fresh bread, local cheese, seasonal fruit, and that truffle butter – simple ingredients that taste extraordinary in such magical surroundings.
We decided to save our market food for dinner later on in our gîte and chose restaurant dining for lunch. We discovered that the best restaurants in Sarlat tend to be tucked away from the main squares. The tourist-trap establishments cluster around Place de la Liberté, but venture down the side streets and you’ll find family-run bistros serving authentic Périgord cuisine at much better prices.
Regional specialties you absolutely must try, if you haven’t already, include duck confit (confit de canard), walnut everything (seriously, they put walnuts in salads, breads, even liqueurs), and if you’re feeling adventurous, some properly prepared foie gras. Trying it in its place of origin, prepared by masters of the craft, is an unforgettable culinary experience.
You can also find some great modern French cuisine in restaurants like Coin Coin, which was our favorite gastronomic find in the town. They do innovative French tapas really well!
Read more: Our complete food guide for Bordeaux and the South West of France!
14:00 PM – Off the Beaten Path
With our bellies satisfied and energy renewed, we dedicated our mid-afternoon to discovering Sarlat’s quieter side. The residential streets west of Rue de la République are a bit steeper and away from the main tourist arteries, but they revealed a different character – smaller mansions, locals chatting in doorways, cats sunning themselves on ancient stone steps.
This is where we found the real artisan shops versus the tourist souvenir stores. A pottery workshop where we watched a craftsman creating traditional pieces, a small bookshop specializing in regional history, and a tiny wine cave where the owner let us taste local Bergerac wines while sharing stories about the region.
The genuine local products are usually found away from the main squares and cost significantly less than their tourist-district counterparts.
Late Afternoon (15:30-17:30): Nearby Dordogne Gardens OR the Truffle Museum
The beauty of Sarlat is that you can see the essential sights in about 4-5 hours, leaving plenty of time to explore the incredible surrounding region.
Here’s where our day transformed from bustling town to mellow garden greenery. The Dordogne region surrounding Sarlat offers some of France’s most spectacular towns and landscaped gardens, all within easy driving distance. We felt that a good French garden was in order. There are 3 options that are all about a 15-20 minute drive away.
Read more: Find out which charming towns and villages in the Dordogne are worth a visit.
Beynac-et-Cazenac along with its imposing castle is a must.
Option 1: Water Gardens of Carsac
After all that medieval stone and history, these peaceful water lily gardens provided the perfect change of pace. The tranquil ponds and carefully designed landscapes offered a more contemplative way to end the afternoon, with plenty of opportunities for reflection and beautiful photography.
Option 2: Gardens of Eyrignac Manor
These acclaimed French formal gardens showcase topiary artistry at its finest. The meticulously manicured landscapes and seasonal blooms create an almost otherworldly beauty. It’s garden design inspiration left us planning major changes to our own backyard!
Option 3: The Topiary Gardens of Chateau de Marqueyssac
The New York Times listed the suspended topiary Gardens of Marqueyssac amongst 25 of the most beautiful in the world and for good reason. Spread over 22 hectares on a clifftop, these gardens include blankets of hand-pruned boxwoods that have to be seen to be believed. They curve around a 17th century château and spill over the cliff that the estate is perched on before hidden paths lead gently upwards through more botanical species and garden features before culminating at a magnificent Belvedere. It is here where you’ll get possibly the best views over the Dordogne Valley.
Option 4: Truffle Museum
If you’d rather not drive after your medieval morning, the Truffle Museum (Musée de la Truffe) offers a fascinating deep dive into Périgord’s “black gold.” You can learn about the complex relationship between truffles, oak trees, and specially trained dogs (and pigs!). The interactive museum explains why these seemingly simple fungi command such extraordinary prices and includes tastings that help you understand what all the fuss is about. It’s perfect for food lovers and adds another layer to understanding this region’s unique culinary heritage.
Evening:
Sarlat at Night
We returned to Sarlat as the sun began to set, and this is when the town revealed its most magical character. Sarlat France at night is something truly special – the medieval stones seem to glow with warm golden light, and the crowds thin out dramatically.
The evening light on those limestone buildings creates an almost ethereal atmosphere. We found a lovely terrace restaurant, called L’ Adresse, where we could watch the town transform as daylight faded into night. The combination of excellent regional wine, perfectly prepared duck confit, and the most romantic setting imaginable made for an unforgettable dinner.
Insider Secrets & Pro Tips
Parking hacks: Arrive early to park at the free spots in the north side of the historic center. Place du Marché aux Noix and Place des Cordeliers are two. They are uphill and about a 10-minute walk from the center. A popular paid parking lot is Place de la Grande Rigaudie. It’s not cheap but it is located just outside the southern edge of the town and is perfect for making a quick run back to drop off your market shopping before returning to continue with your sightseeing. You pay on exiting, so you don’t have to hurry back if you need explore longer.
Early morning magic: If you can manage it, walk through the town between 7-8 AM. You’ll have the medieval streets almost entirely to yourself, and the morning light on the limestone is absolutely spectacular for photography.
Market strategy: Arrive by 10 AM on market days for the best selection of food items, but remember that non-food vendors stay much later if you’re shopping for crafts or regional products.
Family considerations: The cobblestone streets can be challenging for strollers, but kids generally love the “castle town” atmosphere.
The Reality Check
What Exceeded Our Expectations
The authenticity struck us most powerfully. Unlike some tourist destinations that feel artificially preserved, Sarlat manages to feel like a living, breathing town where people actually work and live among these incredible historical buildings.
The Manoir de Gisson was a genuine revelation – we expected a quick tourist attraction but found ourselves completely absorbed in the stories and atmosphere for almost an hour.
The market experience surpassed every expectation. We’ve been to markets all over Europe, but Sarlat’s combination of incredible local products, authentic atmosphere, and that stunning medieval backdrop created something truly special.
Minor Challenges You May Face
During peak season (July-August), the main squares can feel uncomfortably packed, especially between 11 AM and 4 PM. Early morning and evening visits become essential for enjoying the town’s more peaceful character.
Restaurants and shops directly on the main squares definitely charge premium prices. The quality is usually good, but you’ll get better value and often better food by walking just a few streets away from the main tourist flow.
Finding convenient parking during market days and peak season can be genuinely stressful. Plan to arrive early or be prepared for a pleasant walk from more distant parking areas.
The cobblestone streets and various climbs require reasonable mobility. Comfortable walking shoes are absolutely essential – heels would be both uncomfortable and potentially dangerous on those smooth stones.
Planning Your Perfect Visit
Half-Day Option (Essential Highlights)
If time is limited, focus on Place de la Liberté, the cathedral and bell tower, a quick walk through the main medieval streets, and if possible, the Manoir de Gisson. This gives you a solid taste of Sarlat’s magic in about 3-4 hours.
Full-Day Combination (Our Recommended Approach)
Our itinerary above – Sarlat morning exploration, market/lunch experience, then one nearby attraction in the afternoon – provides the perfect balance of medieval history and Dordogne scenery. This approach lets you experience Sarlat thoroughly without feeling rushed, while still seeing more of this incredible region.
The magic doesn’t end when the sun sets – in fact, that’s when Sarlat reveals its most enchanting character. So plan to stay for dinner, take those evening photos, and let this medieval gem work its considerable charm on you.
Multi-Day Strategy
Using Sarlat as your base for exploring Périgord Noir works beautifully for those who want to be able to walk to bars and restaurants at night and don’t mind the parking situation. The town offers excellent accommodation options, great restaurants, and easy access to the region’s other treasures. You could easily spend 4-5 days here, using each day to explore different nearby attractions while returning each evening to Sarlat’s welcoming atmosphere.
Where to Stay in Sarlat
If you do decide to make Sarlat-la-Canéda your base, here are a few highly-rated places accommodations to consider:
Hotel de Compostelle – This modern 3-star hotel is located just north of the medieval city center with excellent amenities including a swimming pool, sauna, and fitness center. The air-conditioned rooms are spacious and well-appointed, and guests consistently praise the varied, high-quality breakfast and professional service.
La Maison des Peyrat – This charming boutique hotel sits in a peaceful green garden setting, just 800 meters from Sarlat’s medieval center and reachable by a pleasant 10-minute walk. The property offers 10 unique rooms with authentic decoration and a heated swimming pool, creating a tranquil retreat away from the tourist crowds while remaining easily accessible to all the sights.
Villa des Consuls – It is perfectly positioned on a cobbled street in the heart of Sarlat’s medieval city center, offering charming accommodations with soaring beamed ceilings and views over the Old City, making it an ideal base for exploring this historic Dordogne town. The property provides excellent comfort with air-conditioned, non-smoking rooms and apartments equipped with modern amenities, while guests consistently praise the helpful staff and overall property condition
Hôtel Saint Albert – Perfectly positioned in the heart of Sarlat’s medieval city center, just 100 meters from the historic town, and offering 25 comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, free Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs. The hotel features a cozy wine bar where guests can discover the wines of Aquitaine accompanied by tapas.
Hôtel Bon Encontre – Beautifully positioned on the heights overlooking Sarlat, just 850 meters from the medieval city center with panoramic views over the valley. It offers air-conditioned rooms and a heated infinity pool with valley views. The 3-star hotel receives excellent guest reviews and provides calm and serenity in the heart of the historic Périgord Noir with private parking and easy 8-minute walk access to old Sarlat.
